Bulkhead problems come up a lot, so I figured I would be helpful by posting photos of parts and tools while working on my 64 Valiant harness. Not asking questions (some guy always asks "and your question is?"), and hopefully won't upset anybody (impossible for some guys!, and I'm not even mentioning the President).
The terminals are termed "56 Terminal", "Packard 56", or "Delphi 56". Packard was an electrical company that made them. They are found on 60-70's GM and Mopar, plus motor-homes thru the 80's. Used throughout the cars. You also find 2 or 3 terminal ones in appliances, though newer ones have slightly different pins. The top pin crimper was ~$17 at Fry's, but only got them started. I had to finish with the lower electrician's crimper, then soldered. I labelled the positions with a silver Sharpie since I like easy trouble-shooting on the road.
To release a terminal, squeeze longitudinally and wiggle as you pull. Pry the felt dust strip out first. I used needle-nose pliers. I show special pliers (found somewhere) I thought might work, but didn't help. Patience, don't get jiggy. If just cleaning, you might leave in place and use sandpaper around a flat screwdriver or a small file. I bought new terminals at www.theelectricaldepot.com, PN D56-2965481 (18 awg, $5.79/qty 25). Looks like I once had PN D56-2971962 (14-16 awg) too, but maybe used up on my Dart. I also bought 1 thru 6-way connector shells for the future. Don't fret if you break a plastic tab when removing connectors, since friction will surely secure them. Use silicone di-electric grease before re-plugging to avoid future corrosion.
I am totally re-wiring the engine harness to use a Jeep relay box (prior post for my Dart), which explains the 20 awg ribbon cable. I don't recommend unless nothing better to do with your time, and certainly not very helpful unless adding EFI, electric fans, and such like I do. The yell-grn-brn ribbon cable is a trailer wire harness (18 awg) which is for parking lights and turn signals (not on relays). The big red wire goes to the BATT bus-bar. A big black wire (not shown) goes to the ALT bus-bar. It wouldn't fit in the PVC sheath. The big yell wire is the temp sensor and the little brown is NSS to starter relay (in Jeep box).
I decided to use a 65 bulkhead connector in my 64 because it has the nice "bus bar" feed-thrus for the big ALT and BATT wires to eliminate the "melted bulkhead" problem (mine were slightly melted). I pulled one out to show. Chrysler did that in 63 (earlier too?), dropped in 64, returned in 65, then dropped 66+ with the 3-connector bulkhead (wiper motor in engine bay). For my 64, I must cut the firewall hole ~1/8" taller. This frees the F & G terminals for other use (washer pump, AC), plus the 6 & 7 terminals are available since I don't have the backup lamp wires of manual transmission cars. I bought a 65 cabin harness on ebay ($35, for 65 Fury). The 64 plugs mate to it (63 differs). C-bodies are the same as A (expect B-body are same).
Those who bypass their dash ammeter (search "MAD Bypass") don't need the bus bar solution. You can also do the "fleet bypass" of running new wires thru the firewall. My ammeter is still active, so I will do the "Grissom Diode Shunt" to protect for a later big alternator (search for post).
The terminals are termed "56 Terminal", "Packard 56", or "Delphi 56". Packard was an electrical company that made them. They are found on 60-70's GM and Mopar, plus motor-homes thru the 80's. Used throughout the cars. You also find 2 or 3 terminal ones in appliances, though newer ones have slightly different pins. The top pin crimper was ~$17 at Fry's, but only got them started. I had to finish with the lower electrician's crimper, then soldered. I labelled the positions with a silver Sharpie since I like easy trouble-shooting on the road.
To release a terminal, squeeze longitudinally and wiggle as you pull. Pry the felt dust strip out first. I used needle-nose pliers. I show special pliers (found somewhere) I thought might work, but didn't help. Patience, don't get jiggy. If just cleaning, you might leave in place and use sandpaper around a flat screwdriver or a small file. I bought new terminals at www.theelectricaldepot.com, PN D56-2965481 (18 awg, $5.79/qty 25). Looks like I once had PN D56-2971962 (14-16 awg) too, but maybe used up on my Dart. I also bought 1 thru 6-way connector shells for the future. Don't fret if you break a plastic tab when removing connectors, since friction will surely secure them. Use silicone di-electric grease before re-plugging to avoid future corrosion.
I am totally re-wiring the engine harness to use a Jeep relay box (prior post for my Dart), which explains the 20 awg ribbon cable. I don't recommend unless nothing better to do with your time, and certainly not very helpful unless adding EFI, electric fans, and such like I do. The yell-grn-brn ribbon cable is a trailer wire harness (18 awg) which is for parking lights and turn signals (not on relays). The big red wire goes to the BATT bus-bar. A big black wire (not shown) goes to the ALT bus-bar. It wouldn't fit in the PVC sheath. The big yell wire is the temp sensor and the little brown is NSS to starter relay (in Jeep box).
I decided to use a 65 bulkhead connector in my 64 because it has the nice "bus bar" feed-thrus for the big ALT and BATT wires to eliminate the "melted bulkhead" problem (mine were slightly melted). I pulled one out to show. Chrysler did that in 63 (earlier too?), dropped in 64, returned in 65, then dropped 66+ with the 3-connector bulkhead (wiper motor in engine bay). For my 64, I must cut the firewall hole ~1/8" taller. This frees the F & G terminals for other use (washer pump, AC), plus the 6 & 7 terminals are available since I don't have the backup lamp wires of manual transmission cars. I bought a 65 cabin harness on ebay ($35, for 65 Fury). The 64 plugs mate to it (63 differs). C-bodies are the same as A (expect B-body are same).
Those who bypass their dash ammeter (search "MAD Bypass") don't need the bus bar solution. You can also do the "fleet bypass" of running new wires thru the firewall. My ammeter is still active, so I will do the "Grissom Diode Shunt" to protect for a later big alternator (search for post).
