I've searched the threads looking for the same problem with no luck.
Here's what I can tell you. 1971 318 Duster. Wiring is original setup with some patches here and there thanks to a mouse that chewed wires a decade ago.
A week ago, I repalced a working 40 amp alternater with a 60 amp alternater because I suspected that the old one was making some noise. Otherwise - everything worked.
The new alternater has been taken back to the store and tested good.
The store also checked my battery with the car running and verified that it is good.
The belt is not slipping.
The voltage regulator is new and well grounded.
Battery grounds removed and cleaned yesterday.
field wire (green) fm alternater to the voltage regulator is good. Just in case, I made a jumper but it didn't make any difference.
the second wire at the regulater (blue) is hot with the ingition switch on and voltage is approximately the same as the battery. As near as I can recall, I think it was same at voltage measured at the battery or within 0.1V. I made a jumper here too directly from the battery - no help.
With car at idle, battery gauge on dash is barely left of center 'till I turn on headlights - then it shows large discharge. All indications are that I'm getting nothing from the alternater when connected to the voltage regulator.
I get similar results when I load the system with the wipers and heater fan.
Engine dies immediately when battery is disconnected. It will ordinarily continue to idle when the battery is disconnected.
If I unplug connector from the voltage regulator and jumper the green wire to the blue and then start the car - the battery gauge shows a good charge as I increase the idle.
I tried the old voltage regulator which worked before I replaced the alternator ( I drove car once with new alternater and old voltage regulater) and results are the same.
Am I missing something? Any reason why a good (well grounded) voltage regulater wouldn't work when a jumper gets the alternater to work?
For what it's worth - I've tried this with and without a battery charger attached to the battery. No difference. The engine starts and runs fine thru all this. Headlights are, of course, dim when I turn them on without the battery charger. The battery meter seems to be working fine.
I'm about out of ideas if I don't have two bad voltage regulators.
Here's what I can tell you. 1971 318 Duster. Wiring is original setup with some patches here and there thanks to a mouse that chewed wires a decade ago.
A week ago, I repalced a working 40 amp alternater with a 60 amp alternater because I suspected that the old one was making some noise. Otherwise - everything worked.
The new alternater has been taken back to the store and tested good.
The store also checked my battery with the car running and verified that it is good.
The belt is not slipping.
The voltage regulator is new and well grounded.
Battery grounds removed and cleaned yesterday.
field wire (green) fm alternater to the voltage regulator is good. Just in case, I made a jumper but it didn't make any difference.
the second wire at the regulater (blue) is hot with the ingition switch on and voltage is approximately the same as the battery. As near as I can recall, I think it was same at voltage measured at the battery or within 0.1V. I made a jumper here too directly from the battery - no help.
With car at idle, battery gauge on dash is barely left of center 'till I turn on headlights - then it shows large discharge. All indications are that I'm getting nothing from the alternater when connected to the voltage regulator.
I get similar results when I load the system with the wipers and heater fan.
Engine dies immediately when battery is disconnected. It will ordinarily continue to idle when the battery is disconnected.
If I unplug connector from the voltage regulator and jumper the green wire to the blue and then start the car - the battery gauge shows a good charge as I increase the idle.
I tried the old voltage regulator which worked before I replaced the alternator ( I drove car once with new alternater and old voltage regulater) and results are the same.
Am I missing something? Any reason why a good (well grounded) voltage regulater wouldn't work when a jumper gets the alternater to work?
For what it's worth - I've tried this with and without a battery charger attached to the battery. No difference. The engine starts and runs fine thru all this. Headlights are, of course, dim when I turn them on without the battery charger. The battery meter seems to be working fine.
I'm about out of ideas if I don't have two bad voltage regulators.
