Author: Bryon Mason

the original color for my 66′ 300 is Frost Turquoise Metallic. I would like to keep the original paint colors when I repaint it which also included the Persian White hardtop. Anyone have this on their car thats not faded? Trying to get a good idea of what it looks like on the car.

I want to change the wheels out on my 66′ 300 and I’m quickly learning that I have to research EVERYTHING before making any changes. I recently read about the left hand right hand thread deal ( good thing before i put the impact on it) . I was wondering if any changes needed to be made if I wanted to go from a 14″ to a 15″ wheel. Whats the bolt pattern on these cars and what kind of backspacing do the wheels have? I found the information on the attached screen shot but not sure how accurate…

1966 300 wheel size

I’m pulling the engine next week on my 1966 300, has the 383, 727 trans and sure grip rear end. The heads are 516 and I’ve been doing as much online research as I can on them. Anyone still run these heads and what’s your thoughts/experience with them? I see alot of pros and cons from what I read about them. I’m not looking to make a race car just gain a little power to help get the slab moving.

below is a picture of the certicard for my 1966 Chrysler 300 I purchased, I have most of it figured out, the II06 has me stumped. Can anyone help??

View attachment 394575

New to the world of C bodies and looking for advice on how to restore it correctly

Location: Yulee, Florida

I just became.the proud owner of 66 Chrysler with a 383 4bbl, 727 trans. The engine is in need of a rebuild, it currently runs however the car is not drivable. Previous owner said it was diagnosed as a bad camshaft I want to put a mild build on the engine and put about a 2500 stal in it as well. Just want a little more push off the line to get this sled cruising.My issue is I’m not finding much for the 66 and from what I’m reading these had “bastardized” heads that nobody really wants to…

1966 Chrysler 300, 383 rebuild